A few Hydro Logs ago, I wrote about highly-successful transplants in the article: What's Growing On...In Hydroculture?. What was different about this article as opposed to a similar one titled Hydroculture Gold Medalists - many Hydro Logs ago - was that I chose to write about succulents, plants that most houseplant growers adamantly consider ‘least likely to adapt to hydroculture’. I also admitted having had those same reservations until I got really comfortable with the water-based growing style.

The truth in the matter is that even after I’d converted a few ‘unlikely’ candidates successfully, and should have been completely at ease with the hydroculture system, the doubts were obviously still there since I wasn’t confident enough to attempt to convert the well-known Aloe (Barbadensis) Vera – the mother of all succulents. It’s not only that I doubted it would survive the transplantation, I doubted it would survive at all - no matter what method I’d grow it in, soil or soilless. Because you see, this easy-to-grow, fail-proof, highly-recommended-for-beginners, difficult-to-kill, even-a-child-can-grow-it plant has never, ever been very kind to me. Ever. We’ve always had a turbulent relationship that sooner or later ends in heartache – mine.

I often receive compliments on my plant growing abilities but perhaps a different tune would be sung if people knew about my skeleton – or rather Aloe – in the closet. This is a plant that I’ve replaced quite a few times over the past two decades because no matter what I do, it succumbs to the big greenhouse in the sky, usually because of insufficient light - which isn’t always my fault – or too much water - which is. After every failure, I swear to the plant gods that I'll never – and I mean it this time - buy another one. But when enough time has passed and the bad memory fades, I pick up another, the madness starts again and another Aloe eventually bites the dust.

Until I converted one to hydroculture.

When my last soil-grown Aloe ended up in the garbage, once again I swore I’d never buy another one. And I didn’t for a very long time. Then one day as I strolled through a local greenhouse, I stumbled upon some newly-arrived Aloes in tiptop shape. Common sense advised me not to go down that route again with these heartless succulents; my plant ego insisted that I try again and not let them get the better of me. In the end, I did take one home, but on one condition: that I would convert it to hydroculture and let the chips fall where they may. If it rotted, so be it.

“Be brave”, I told my Aloe. “You will grow where no Aloe has grown before...and set a new trend”. Pause. “Or go down in flames”

Almost a year later that (guinea pig) Aloe is alive and well, growing better than any of the others I’ve had before it. And I can now say, without any reservations, that succulents are great candidates for hydroculture. The plants that you are convinced will not succeed are sometimes the plants that will surprise you the most. If an Aloe can do it, any succulent can do it.

Below I will share some information about this indoor favourite. I will begin by writing about the care requirements of soil-grown specimens, followed by the conversion techniques and aftercare of Aloes grown in hydroculture.


Aloe In Soil

An Aloe plant - with its long, grey/green leaves edged with tiny spikes - is available everywhere because it is easy to care for. Along with its ability to thrive effortlessly inside your home the Aloe is also well-known for its medicinal properties. The gel inside the leaves is used for certain ailments and as a soothing ointment for burns, itching, rashes, stings and bites. It is also a common ingredient in a variety of beauty products.

If you’ve ever grown an Aloe, you know that there are two surefire ways to kill it - by giving it too much water or by placing it in a spot that doesn’t provide enough light. Or a combination of both. This plant needs a lot of light to thrive. Place it near a window where it will receive plenty of sunshine throughout the day. It will tolerate partial shade but won’t grow as well. You can’t force this plant to get used to the lack of sun in some areas of your home; it will deteriorate as time progresses.

With a shallow root system that adds to its susceptibility to rot, it is important to grow this plant in a pot that is not too deep and provides good drainage. Use a porous, fast-draining soil that will never stay damp for long. Be extra careful with the watering can in the winter while the plant is somewhat dormant and requires very little moisture. Allow the soil to dry out completely before giving it a drink. In the summer, you can give the plant a thorough soaking only after it’s completely dry. If you’re in doubt about whether or not to water, don’t water. Under-watering this plant is a much safer alternative.

Choose a spot that is warm and free of cold drafts. Although this succulent would love a sunny windowsill where it can bask in the sun, temperatures can be considerably lower that close to a window than anywhere else in the room. Verify that the temperature is warm enough and that the plant is not touching cold glass; an Aloe will succumb to frost on cold winter nights near a window that is chilly. Never leave this plant – or any plant – trapped between a cold window and a closed curtain on bitter winter nights. Humidity is not an issue; low levels are tolerated very well.


Aloe In Hydroculture

With its ability to store large quantities of water in its leaves accompanied by a shallow root system, you can well imagine how easy it is to kill this otherwise resilient plant if you are heavy-handed with the watering can. Why worry about it? Eliminate all water woes by growing this succulent in hydroculture instead. Although it seems unlikely that this type of succulent can possibly grow in a water-based system, an Aloe is one of the best candidates.

Conversion is easy and swift with very little stress, but certain steps must be taken to assure that the plant does not succumb to rot. When transplanting, it is imperative that all traces of soil be removed from the roots. If the roots cannot be thoroughly cleaned, do the best you can and pot it up in hydroculture. After a week to ten days disassemble the setup and wash the roots again, removing more of the caked-on soil and any dead or dying roots. Repot and repeat this step again if necessary until the root system is clean.

Don’t be alarmed if water roots take long, possibly months, to appear, especially if you are converting the plant during the colder months (which it’s best not to). The lengthy lack of water root formation will not have a negative effect on the plant. New growth will appear soon enough to indicate that the plant has adjusted to its new environment, with or without new roots.

Once the plant shows signs of successful conversion, treat it just like you would in soil in terms of light, temperature and humidity requirements. Provide ample sunshine and warm temperatures; humidity is not an issue. In the summer time, allow the container to dry out completely and do not add more water until after two or three days. During the winter season, keeping the container dry for up to a whole week – even longer - will not hurt your plant. When adding water to the bottom of the container, ensure that the level you add never touches the root system or the base of the plant; it will encourage rot.



This charming succulent is a great choice for beginners searching for resilient plants, and for growers interested in low maintenance greenery. And it will grow boldly where no Aloe has grown before – in hydroculture. Easily.

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