You asked for it; you got it. Here is a step-by-step explanation - with photos - on how to convert houseplants from soil to hydroculture. I’ve adopted the text from the page “Transplanting From Soil” and expanded upon it where necessary. The information below has been written to help anyone interested in hydroculture fully understand the conversion process.

This article consists of three parts:

1. The Hydroculture System Explained
2. How To Convert Plants From Soil To Hydroculture
3. Alternative Setups And Useful Links

What Is Hydroculture?

Hydroculture is the method of growing plants without soil. You have most likely heard about ‘Hydroponics’, an automated method of growing plants in water, mostly related to the production of food. Hydroculture, related to hydroponics but functioning quite differently, is the low-end of growing plants in water. It is also referred to as passive hydroponics, which means that it lacks all the automation commonly associated with hydroponics.

For more information: About Hydroculture


The Equipment Used

The hydroculture system consists of five basic parts:

1. outer pot (for holding the water reservoir)
2. culture pot (inner growing pot)
3. growing medium (expanded, fired clay pellets)
4. water level indicator
5. nutrient (fertilizer)

The culture pot is the heart of the hydro system, available on the market in many different sizes to accommodate an assortment of plants. Fitting snugly into the outer pot, it is made of plastic with slits all around the base that guarantee maximum air flow through the growing medium and the root zone. The design of the culture pot also allows for a water level indicator to be attached firmly.

With its concave bottom, only the external portion of the pot makes contact with the outer pot and the nutrient solution. The special design of the culture pot assures that the plant’s root are not growing in water; they are growing above the water, surrounded by the clay pellets, which draw the moisture up by capillary action from the supply in the outer pot. Roots are never wet, just evenly moist.


The Growing Medium

Clay pellets are the growing medium of choice. They take the place of soil, are porous, retain moisture and transfer water to the roots by capillary action. These pellets are light in weight, do not compact, are inert, ph neutral, contain no nutrients and are completely reusable; you can clean and sterilize them after use.

The pellets drain freely and don’t hold excess water, providing good oxygen levels around the root area. This growing medium called LECA (Light Expanded Clay Aggregate) also provides the necessary support for the plant along with its ability to absorb the correct amount of water and oxygen. Healthy and beautiful plants are guaranteed with this optimal ratio of water and oxygen.

For more information: What Are Those Meatball Thingies?


Water Level Indicator

The water level indicator, resembling a thermometer, fits neatly into a slot in the culture-pot and is used as a water gauge. There are three markers on the indicator: min (minimum), opt (optimum), max (maximum). The marker in the indicator rises as water is added and falls as the water is used up by the plant. When the indicator reaches the minimum level, it signifies that the pot is completely empty and it’s time to add water. The water level should always be kept at the opt (optimum) level. Only under special circumstances should you fill the pot to the max (maximum) mark, such as extended absences from home.


Nutrient

Hydroculture plants have a regular feeding schedule, which eliminates the guesswork involved in traditional growing methods. Feeding frequency depends on which kind of plant food you decide is most convenient. The two basic choices are liquid fertilizer and slow release nutrient. Liquid fertilizer can be added at every watering while the slow release nutrient - loose granules sprinkled on top of the clay pebbles or a gelled disk that is placed in the bottom of the hydroculture water reservoir – is added every 4 - 6 months.

1. Prepare The Pellets

   If you’ve just picked up a new bag of clay pellets, rinse them under running tap water in a colander or strainer to remove dust caused by shipping and handling. Likewise, clean pellets that haven’t been put to use for a long time. When the water runs clear, which signifies that the clay pellets are clean, soak them in water overnight – or at least for a few hours - to saturate them. If your pellets are not new, and they’ve been used recently, just rinse them a bit and use them right away.
   
   
   
   

2. Convert Only Healthy Specimens

   No matter how hardy a plant, converting it from soil to water will cause it stress. If the plant is in poor shape the results will be less than satisfactory and the plant may even die, so choose only healthy specimens. In addition, do not convert plants that are infested by pests; get rid of the infestation first and convert the plant only after its health has been fully restored.
   
   
   
   

3. To Water Or Not To Water

   Before you convert your plant, decide whether you want to let the soil dry out completely or whether you want to give your plant a hearty drink. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. A plant whose thirst has been quenched may be able to handle the conversion much better, but it will be more difficult to remove all traces of caked on soil from the roots. Those roots will eventually rot so it’ll be important to check the plant regularly below the surface. On the other hand, a parched plant will have a more difficult time dealing with the process, but the roots will be easier to clean. I personally convert my plants when they are dry, but my ‘practical’ advice to you is this: Water thin-leaved, thirsty plants thoroughly before converting and let succulents dry since they have the ability to store water and easily survive droughts.
   
   
   
   

4. Prune The Roots And Remove All Traces Of Soil

   Remove the plant selected for conversion from its pot. If the plant does not slip out easily, squeeze the sides of the pot or use a knife or spoon to loosen the soil. Remove dead or unhealthy roots and prune back the rest - especially the longer ones - about 1/3 to encourage new growth. Don’t be afraid of this step; as your plant grows new water roots, the soil roots will become useless either way.
   
   Crumble away as much of the soil surrounding the remaining roots as possible. Remember to be gentle when you are working with the root system.
   
   Once you have removed as much dirt as you can by hand, rinse the roots under tepid running water in your sink or bathtub to remove whatever traces of loose soil are left. Massage the root area with your hands to help with the cleaning but don’t be too rough.
   
   For traces of soil that are too hard to remove, use a soft toothbrush, sponge or cloth and scrub lightly. You can also soak the root ball in water for several hours or overnight to aide in this process. Be sure that the roots are completely free of all traces of soil. Any soil left on the roots can lead to rot.
   
   If it is utterly impossible to remove all the soil, even after a night of soaking, don’t fret. Clean the roots as thoroughly as you can and pot up the plant in hydroculture. After ten day to two weeks, disassemble the setup, give the roots another rinsing and repot.
   
   
   

5. Pot Up The Plant In The Culture Pot

   Before you begin, install the water level indicator in the lining of the culture pot. Your plant is now ready to be added to its new container.
   
   Pot it up the same way as you would in soil. Add a layer of clay pellets at the bottom of the culture pot. The amount of medium added can be an inch or two, maybe more. It all depends on the depth of your pot and how tall your plant is. The process is similar to the way you add some soil at the bottom of your pot before placing your plant on top of it in traditional growing styles.
   
   Place the plant into the culture pot on top of the layer of pellets, spread the roots out across the medium and slowly fill up the pot, adding clay pellets to within ¼” of the top of the pot; this will anchor the plant.
   
   
   
   

6. Place The Setup Into The Outer Pot

   The roots are clean, the water level indicator is inserted and the plant is potted. There’s only one thing left to do: move the whole kit and caboodle into an outer pot and add some moisture.
   
   Pour water over the pellets until the water indicator reads optimum. Do not water again until the indicator reaches the minimum setting. Something worth remembering: clay pebbles retain moisture for a few days so don’t worry if you don’t add water immediately when the indicator reaches the minimum level; your plant will be fine.
   
   
   
   

7. What To Expect

   The development of water roots may take anywhere from 2 - 12 weeks. During that period, there are a few things you can expect that are perfectly normal.
   
   

   • Most of the plants will react with some wilting but hold onto their leaves.
   
   
   
   • Some plants will go into shock for a short while and display minor symptoms of stress such as wilting, minimal leaf shedding and yellowing of leaves.
   
   
   
   • A very small number of plants will shed almost all of their leaves and grow new ones after they’ve converted.
   
   
   
   • The majority of flowering plants will lose their buds. You might want to consider converting these specimens after the blooming period is over.
   
   
   
   • A few plants suspend the growth process of emerging leaves, no matter what stage they’re in, until water roots form. Then they resume the growing process as if nothing happened. This is a truly amazing thing to witness.
   
   
   
   • A surprisingly large quantity of plants does not react negatively - at all. They are either oblivious to the conversion or - most likely - unconcerned. These champions grow water roots very quickly.

   The reaction of each plant is unique; no two plants convert the same way. But no matter how your newly-converted plant reacts, don’t give up on it during this period. Whether it sheds a couple of leaves or hangs over its pot miserably, be patient. It will survive and bounce back. Never toss out a plant simply because of its dramatic display; chances are it is still alive.
   
   
   

8. How You Can Help

   You are aware that until your plant grows water roots it will be a stressful period for it. Without proper roots it does not have the ability to pull up water adequately, and will struggle to stay hydrated. You can make the transition easier. Below are a few things you can do to aid in the process:
   
   

   • Spray the plant several times a day with water to provide it with much needed moisture.
     
     
   • Place the entire pot on a pebble tray filled with water that will rise and surround the pot with humidity.
     
     
   • Cover the plant with a clear plastic bag until it converts to keep humidity high.
     
     
   • Keep the plant out of the direct path of the sun and drafts.
   
   
   
   
9. When To Start Feeding

   If you surf the internet, you will find differing information on when to start feeding your newly-converted plant. Some sites will advise to fertilize right away, others will tell you to wait until the next watering. It’s all good. My personal recommendation is to wait until your plant develops its water roots, which signifies that it has successfully completed the transition and fully adopted the hydroculture system.

The information above has been written to provide you with a clear understanding of what’s involved in hydroculture – the conversion of the plant (the most pertinent) and the equipment included. But unlike the medium, which is the core of the system and cannot be compromised, culture pots, outer pots, water level indicators and hydroponics fertilizers – the standard hydroculture setup – can be customized, and even compromised, to suit your needs.

I personally prefer clear glass containers that allow me to monitor the water level thus eliminating the need for water level indicators and the use of double pots.

To learn more, visit: My System Explained

Another hydroculture lover promotes the ‘Pot and Saucer’ method on his website; a terrific alternative that I’ve encouraged some of my readers to adopt. With this style you’ll be able to use a multitude of containers – with drainage holes - to grow your plants in.

Visit the website: www.hydro-culture.net and click on ‘Containers’ on the menu.

In addition to the ‘Pot and Saucer’ method, the above-mentioned website offers step-by-step instructions on building a water level indicator. This is especially useful for individuals who want to use opaque containers - in single or double pot setups - that require a water level indicator to properly monitor the moisture.


And finally, below are links to some articles on this website that might prove handy:

From the Hydro Log Page:

Hydroculture vs. Growing In Water

Put On Your Hydro Thinking Cap

Hydroculture Gold Medalists


From The Menu:

The System Explained

Advantages Over Soil

F.A.Q


Now that you’re equipped with all the necessary information, what are you waiting for? Get growing with hydroculture.

* The water level indicator, the culture pot and the slow release nutrient are all courtesy of my hydroculture friends at PurLec *

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