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A Little Knowledge Goes A Long Way

Just this past summer (it really is over...sigh ), while visiting at my brother’s home, my sister-in-law pulled me into her living room to ask my advice about some plants that had (from her perspective) seen better days. Unlike me who has a multitude of diverse plants scattered throughout the entire home, her collection of greenery is quite humble – just a handful’s worth. (I must admit I could never limit myself to such a sparse assortment. How do people do that?)

Anyhow, there were some cacti together in a pot with no drainage holes, which is a big no-no with succulents. There was a Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena Sanderiana) sitting in water in front of a southern window, which might not be lethal but will be tiresome to a plant that doesn’t require – or desire – that much sun. There was a Moth Orchid whose flowering period had come to an end also sitting in front of that southern window. Not only was this plant in light brighter than it yearned for, with the afternoon sun beating down on it, the plastic grow pot it inhabited was set in a cache pot whose bottom was filled with water. After the plant had been doused with a hearty drink from the jug, the excess water hadn’t been emptied out! OHMYGOD! A huge no-no for a plant with fragile roots!
Dracaena Sanderiana - Lucky Bamboo
For the most part - for someone who does not share the same level of passion for houseplants as I do (or care to) - the plants (mostly gifts) were not in as bad condition as my sister-in-law thought. They were relatively healthy – albeit slightly misplaced - for a grower with minimal experience. The Dracaena Sanderiana appeared to be struggling having to deal with more sunshine than it could tolerate so I suggested that it be moved out of the direct path of the sun’s rays. I made the same recommendation for the Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis). Keeping it in direct light near a southern window where the sun reaches the leaves can cause burning and ugly brown marks on the foliage. And although good light is important to all Orchids, that type of intense light is more detrimental than beneficial.

The cacti - basking in the sun - were perfectly suited to the bright light but they were in danger of drowning in a pot with no drainage holes. Even the most experienced houseplant owner would have trouble managing succulents in such a setup. The problem with placing plants inside containers without drainage holes is twofold. 1) You can’t leach the pot now and then, which is important because it removes excess soluble salts and 2) It is extremely easy to over-water and kill the plant (especially the desert lovers that turn to mush if overly-saturated one time too many!). If you have a pot with no drainage holes that you really like and want to continue to use, the best thing to do is make holes in the bottom to drain excess water (you can drill through clay pots) or simply insert a plastic pot with drain holes inside it and pot the plants directly in that.

(If you are growing your plants in hydroculture, you need not worry about over watering problems anymore)

All in all, there were minor adjustments needed to improve the overall health of these houseplants. A few simple questions followed and I offered some additional advice and recommendations (not that she asked, but once you get me going on the topic of houseplants I can’t stop; people should know better).

Moving along...

Recently, I pored over that particular meeting from a different perspective. I remembered some of the questions, comments and hands-on plant care that struck me as odd. A few of the leaves on the Dracaena Sanderiana - which originates in both tropical and temperate climates in Japan, China, Southeast Asia, Africa and South America - had turned yellow (this could be due to multiple reasons) but the plant (for the most part) wasn’t in complete despair. Moving it out of the sun’s direct path, changing the water regularly to provide constant oxygen to the roots, filling up a jug with tap water and allowing it to sit for a minimum of 24 hours to reach room temperature (and for the chlorine to dissipate) before using and cleaning the plant, container and pebbles now and then would do this plant wonders. A Dracaena Sanderiana in water really doesn’t need more than that. But my sister-in-law’s initial statement, which I found odd, was: “...the leaves are turning yellow...my plant is dying…” Far from it. Yet she’s not the only one who believes that a plant is dying once yellow leaves start to appear.
Orchid
The careless placement of the Moth Orchid in front of a southern window and the overlooked accumulation of water in the cache pot would strike any veteran houseplant grower as peculiar. This Orchid, one of the most popular ones sold as a potted plant, is the Orchid of choice for beginners because it is fairly easy to grow. Although found on all continents except Antarctica, the majority of Orchids are native to the tropics and their numbers increase as you get closer to the equator. Most of these plants are epiphytes (plants that grow on other plants but do not parasitize them) but a few are lithophytes (plants that grow in or on rocks and derive their nourishment chiefly from the atmosphere).

In their natural habitat, Orchids are typically found below the canopies of moist and humid lowland forests, living in the shade of the trees upon which they cling. Since they don’t receive direct sun under the care of Mother Nature and they thrive, then it stands to reason that they don’t like (or need) direct sun in your home under your care. Placing them in a southern or eastern location is fine as long as you protect them from direct sun (primarily midday), making sure to never allow the leaves to heat up. Along with being cautious about high levels of light exposure, careful watering is crucial. An Orchid’s roots will rot easily if they remain in a soggy medium; soil that retains moisture for extended periods is lethal. These plants need to be potted in a well-draining mix, preferably one that is specific to Orchids. You can buy it commercially or prepare it yourself. Make sure to use pots with a lot of drainage!

Speaking of drainage, the abovementioned cacti also appreciate the same ‘plenty-of-good-drainage’ privileges! If they could speak they would tell you that watering them properly is one of the most important factors in keeping them alive, never mind healthy. Together with restraining yourself from overdoing it with the watering can, cactus-specific soil and well-draining containers all aide in avoiding root rot, which comes easily to these plants. And never, ever place them on a rigid watering schedule. With cacti and succulents, watering is not an exact science; every week or every two weeks like clockwork is not wise. Deciding when to water these natives from the desert regions of USA, South America & Mexico is best done by careful observation. The time of year, soil mixture, temperature, size and type of plant, lighting, container, drainage and humidity – among other factors - all influence water use.
Cacti & Succulents
The tidbit of information above about these particular plants is very minimal but useful. The tropical Dracaena Sanderiana (fad name: Lucky Bamboo) needs indirect light and regular water changes. The drought-resistant Cacti need bright light, careful watering, an appropriate soil mix and a pot that drains well to avoid root rot. And the epiphytic Moth Orchid - also in need of a medium suitable to it - will be much happier if kept out of the direct path of the sun’s scorching rays while it sits in a pot with very good drainage to protect its sensitive roots from turning to mush.

As I pondered over this meeting with my sister-in law, I was reminded once again how uninformed people are about their houseplants. It’s no wonder most houseplants die within the first two years, many times within the first one - and sometimes within months or even weeks - because of this lack of insight. What comes naturally to me through years of hands-on approach, reading and researching is completely alien to many houseplant growers. This is due to many reasons: lack of interest, obscure information attached to the plant at the greenhouse, plants given as gifts to someone who is then obligated to care for them, misinformation, lack of information gathering, etc. I started off the same way in my novice years and have casualties to prove it.

But if you really want to be successful with your plants, you have to work towards it.


Do Your Homework To Grow Healthier Plants
Houseplant Instruction Tag
In order to be more successful with your houseplants, it’s important to learn a little about them first. Don’t rely on that ambiguous tag attached to your plant at the greenhouse to point you in the right direction. The scanned image on the right is of such a tag; it came with a plant I recently brought home. Incidentally, the same tag was attached to many different plants inside the greenhouse even though not all of them share the same requirements.

The instructions listed are as follows:

  1. Feed with mild liquid fertilizer
  2. Keep soil moist
  3. Ideal temp range is between 55 and 70 F
  4. Place in filtered sun or partial shade.
But what does it actually tell me? Not very much, it’s too general. Not even the name of the plant I’m purchasing is listed. It just labels it as ‘Tropical Foliage’. Now there’s a revelation; there are a multitude of plants that can easily be categorized as ‘Tropical Foliage’. But they don’t all have the same needs.

So, not only do I not know what type of plant I’m taking home but the information attached to the plant is very ambiguous. If you are a complete novice to houseplant care, exactly what is a mild liquid fertilizer anyway? In fact, what the heck is fertilizer? Keep the soil moist? Always? If a beginner follows that instruction literally, he/she will never allow the soil to dry at all – not even an inch or two at the top. The plant will eventually die from over watering. It may sound funny to experienced plant owners, but if you’ve never taken care of a plant before, everything is new, therefore everything is unfamiliar. I remember my own humble beginnings. Walking through a greenhouse in those initial years left me more confused.

There are so many different types of soil! Which one do I use? How can I decide what type of soil to use when I don’t even know what type of plant I have? What about pots? Clay, plastic, ceramic? With drainage holes? Without? So many fertilizers! Which one is best? And what the heck do those numbers mean?

And those were just a few of the simpler questions...

A great quantity of plants fall into the ‘general’ plant care category of a tag attached to your plant but it will not always help to keep your plant in optimal shape. One size does not fit all in the world of indoor plants. You have to do your homework to take your plant care one step further. In order to do your homework though, you have to know what type of plant you’re bringing home (actually you should do your homework before purchasing plants so you can match them to your home environment and your growing style; you should read: Put The Brakes On Impulsive Plant Purchases)

But I digress...

While you are in the greenhouse, don’t be shy to ask for the name of the plant you’re taking home and what kind of care it requires. Someone may point out that there is a tag attached with instructions but it’s not enough information. A quality greenhouse will (should) have at least one person who is fairly knowledgeable about houseplants, able to answer your questions - patiently. If the staff is unable or unwilling to help you, consider leaving the plant behind, unless you are an experienced grower. There is no point taking home a plant that you are unfamiliar with if you are a beginner in this hobby, especially if the plant in question is pricey. Second-guessing a plant’s care can lead to fatal results for your new foliage. You’d be surprised how quickly a houseplant can die, especially when waterlogged.
Houseplant With Tag
If staff at the greenhouse is unable to provide helpful or more detailed care instructions but can tell you the proper name of the plant, it’s one important step forward. At this point, you may decide to take the ‘xyz’ plant home with the intention of learning about its care on your own. A good book, the internet or a friend with an established green thumb can fill in the blanks. Again, don’t underestimate how rapidly your plant can decline once it moves out of the comfortable greenhouse and into your home with all its shortcomings, along with an inexperienced caregiver. Getting the essential information for proper care is a smart move.

For example, if you are completely new to cacti and succulents, you can easily kill them with kindness. A cactus that loves basking in the sun but hates being watered too often will not be very happy if you place it in a shady room and water it every couple of days. On the flip side, that pretty Prayer Plant (Maranta Leuconeura) with striking red-veined leaves will beg for mercy if you place it in the sizzling midday sun and forget to water it.

And what about humidity? Which plants need more? Which plants need less? Which plants have to receive direct sun? How many hours of sun do they need? Morning sun or afternoon? Which plants need cooler night temperatures? Which ones cannot tolerate cooler weather? Should you repot the plant into fresh soil when you bring it home? Should you fertilize it? How often? What type? Liquid? Powder? Tablet? Spikes? Granular? Does it matter which type?! Will the drought-loving cacti be happier in clay pots or will they fare just as well in ceramic? What about plastic? Do the tropical plants need to be in ‘all purpose’ soil or ‘tropical’? And just what is the difference between the two? Is there any? What about perlite? Peat? Vermiculite? Sand? Sphagnum Moss? Charcoal? Clay soil conditioner? Pebbles? What are all these things on the shelves and do I need any of them? What are all these insecticides, pesticides and fungicides doing next to the fertilizers? Do plants get sick? Do bugs attack houseplants!?

OHMYGOD! Why is it so complicated? Don’t you just put a plant inside a pot, add a little dirt and water it now and then? Not if you want beautiful, healthy foliage and regular blooms. You have to do your homework and put in a little extra effort for those goodies.


A Knowledge Pursuit Also Helps You Troubleshoot

Along with learning about how to care for your plants, you’ll also be able to solve problems that appear – and trust me, they will appear. They will crop up at some point no matter what level of experience you boast. After years of growing houseplants, I no longer ask “what is wrong with my plant?” when one of them is complaining. Now the question is “what did I do wrong with this plant?”

Left to Mother Nature – the only true master gardener; the rest of us are just stumbling along – plants thrive. In her hands, living green is happy and healthy. But a plant in a pot is a prisoner and dependent on you. Whenever a houseplant is unhappy, it’s because of something we’ve done or didn’t do. There are numerous reasons why a plant deteriorates or complains – over-watering, under-watering, not enough light, too much light, too cold, too hot, humidity is too high, humidity is too low, too much fertilizer, not enough, insects, diseases, drafts, air conditioners, heating ducts, pets, kids and on and on.

When the problems begin, these types of questions may need answering:

Why are the lower leaves of my plant turning yellow? Why are the leaves black, curling, pale, dry or dropping with no sign of stopping? Why do they have holes in them or brown tips? What are those brown, yellow, silver, red or white spots, specks or blotches? Why is the foliage distorted, discolored, wilting, burnt, torn or moldy? Why isn’t my plant growing? Why is it leggy? Why aren’t my flowering plants blooming? Why are the buds dropping before opening!? Why is my plant still wilting after I’ve finished watering it? What are those small, oval, brown bumps on the leaves and stem? Why does my plant feel sticky? Why are there spider webs on it? Is that cotton on my plant? Uh-oh...
Houseplant Books
Are you prepared to answer these questions? You can be if you do your homework and learn a little about houseplants and their needs. You don’t need to take courses. You don’t need to gain a diploma. It’s not complicated. There’s no club to join. No fees to pay. You can build a practical knowledge base entirely on your own with extensive resources always available - books, the internet, seasoned houseplant growers – and with a hands-on approach. To grow beautiful houseplants, all you need to do is learn the basic principles of proper care and combine that with the right tools and products.


A little knowledge goes a long way. It will make the difference between healthy plants and fading foliage.

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