Put On Your Hydro Thinking Cap
Just the other day, I was sorting through emails sent to me through this website by people from different areas
of the world. Most of the messages inquire about the hydroton clay pellets that I use for my plants that many
visitors to my site have a hard time finding locally. Some of them question whether this plant or that one is
capable of growing in the hydroculture method. And a few are curious about what type of fertilizer I favor for my
plants, whether I use bottled or tap water and how I determine if my plants have converted successfully into the
soilless system. But surprisingly enough, almost all of them will bring up the type of containers I use to grow my
plants, which is glass, and question the what, where, when and why(s) of it.
If you’ve browsed through enough pages on this website, you will promptly conclude that I have all my plants in
clear containers except for my hanging plants that are in opaque pots. For those, my innovative husband has
punctured a small hole on the side of the container and skillfully passed plastic tubing along the side of the
pot from top to bottom. One end of the tube is aligned with the top of the container; the other end (which runs
neatly along the side from top to bottom and has been inserted into the interior of the pot) lies flat at the
bottom (on the inside). To secure the tubing in place and eliminate any possibilities of water leakage, he’s used
plain old glue in inconspicuous places; it’s attractive and practical at the same time. When I add water into
the pot, it also enters into the plastic tubing and this allows me to monitor the level, letting me know when
it’s time to add more. Original, affordable and pretty darn nifty.
My homemade product is just one of many ideas that anyone – including you – can come up with to make hydroculture
convenient, easy on the pocket and aesthetically pleasing. If you don’t want to use the commercial hydro kit,
you’re going to have to use your imagination to come up with creative solutions of your own. This brings me to
the reason of this article that has been a long time in the making.
It is important that my readers understand that clear containers are my own personal choice in the way I grow my
hydroculture plants but not the standard – not even close to it. Other houseplant growers might not opt for that
style at all. In fact, many individuals will find that clear containers don’t work well at all for them because
they don’t want to be able to see the clay pellets. While I don’t mind the look of the clay pieces, others may
find it rather unattractive.
This website was not designed to sell you on the idea of see-through containers. It was designed to share the
methodology of growing houseplants in hydroculture. The types of containers you use (double or single pots,
commercial or non-commercial kits, opaque or clear, tall, short, wide or slim), whether you insert a homemade or
commercially-designed water level indicator and what type of fertilizer you settle on is – well – entirely up to
you. Those are the accessories that you choose according to your own individual taste. I can’t do that for you.
Your choices have to compliment your home or office décor. Mine have to compliment my own.
What I can do is answer some of your questions and perhaps clear up some of the cobwebs of confusion that I find
in many of my emails. Below I have formulated a list of the most common inquiries about potting up hydroculture
plants in transparent containers that I have received in my mailbox in the past few months. After each one, I
will offer a personal perspective, some advice and handy tips that may be helpful to you.
TRANSPARENT CONTAINERS Q&A
Glass Or Plastic?
It’s no secret that the majority of my plants grow in glass containers, but unbeknownst to many, there are a few
that are in plastic ones. I can assure you that it doesn’t make much of a difference which one you use to house a
plant as long as it’s watertight. Having said that, I’d also like to add that there are a few advantages that
glass has over plastic: 1) glass is much cleaner, therefore it will never release any harmful chemicals into the
water that can hurt plants, 2) glass is much more attractive and 3) glass is scratch-resistant. But there are a
few benefits with plastic as well: 1) they are more affordable, 2) you can recycle household items (food storage
containers are terrific) and 3) you can punch holes in them and use them as inner pots.
If you are a very imaginative individual, you can conjure up some very interesting setups with plastic items
available around your home. Even if you opt for glass, look around for creative inspirations. For example, unused
drinking glasses can be recycled into very attractive containers.
Is Glass Expensive?
Yes and no. Glass containers do not have to cost a fortune; it all depends on how and where you shop for them. It
also depends on what’s available in your area. I have picked up some stunning glass vases that are even cheaper
than conventional pots for plants. Glass seems to be quite in fashion these days and the local shops are overstocked
with them. Just recently, I stumbled upon a wonderful selection of glass containers at my local dollar store. I
picked up almost a dozen of phenomenally-priced pots and spent – you guessed it - $1.00 for each one. It was the
best deal I’d ever run across till now; I really hit the jackpot with this good fortune by being at the right place
at the right time. Each one’s size is equivalent to a 4” pot used for houseplants in soil. You can’t get better
than that. All that to say: scout your local shops for good deals and great sales! You can pot up your houseplants
in uniquely-shaped glass vessels at bargain prices if you shop smart.
Does Size Matter?
Because of my diverse and extensive collection of plants, I use transparent glass and plastic containers of various
shapes and sizes. You might find one plant sitting in a shallow, wide vase while another pokes its leaves out of a
tall and narrow one. There is no rhyme or reason to this mixed bag; I just like it that way. So when a visitor to
my website questioned whether I applied a different methodology for water level application - dependent on the size
and shape of each container in this hodgepodge - I was slightly puzzled. After giving it some thought, and
realizing that I don’t specify anywhere on my website whether the size or shape of containers plays any role in
determining when and how much to water, I realized that this point is very valid.
The questions: “If the containers are of assorted sizes and shapes, how do you determine the proper water levels?
Won’t they be very different for short, wide pots versus tall narrow pots?”
No. Not in my hydroculture world. When I convert a plant from soil to hydroculture, I just use whatever size and
shape container is appropriate (and appealing). And they’re all treated more or less the same.
It doesn't make any difference what width or height my containers are. The level of water I add is the same across
the board. I pour between ½” - 2" of water in all of them, depending on how low or high the roots of the plant
are. The only thing that's central when it comes to my hydroculture plants is that the rooting system is sitting
above the water, not in it. As long as the water is below the roots, I'm satisfied. And so are the plants.
If you are uncomfortable with this setup, new to hydroculture or just not willing to apply such a broad approach,
I would highly recommend commercial hydroculture starter kits available from hydroponics suppliers. These kits are
a complete set that include an inner growing pot (culture pot, insert), an outer pot, the growing medium and a water
level indicator that will alleviate any concerns about water measurements. As time progresses and you become more
familiar with the hydroculture style, you may start to experiment with your own ideas (and find that most of
them work).
Note: You can also add a water level indicator into your transparent containers.
Algae Problems And Solutions
You haven't heard wrong. Growing plants in transparent containers can cause algae. Not all of them, only some of
the ones that sit in the sun. But even the ones basking in sunlight don’t all develop algae. Speaking from personal
experience, I do occasionally have to deal with this nuisance, mainly after fertilizing, but not anywhere near as
much as I was afraid of. And for whatever reason, some containers don’t develop algae at all.
Occasionally, there are small traces present at the bottom of containers where the water sits (but never directly
on the hydroton pellets). When I notice the presence of algae, I change the water and do a thorough cleaning.
Remember that hydroculture can be disassembled with little effort, which allows you to take it apart completely,
clean everything and reassemble in no time. Never, ever worry about dismantling your plant’s setup to do whatever
needs to get done. As long as the roots of the plant are continuously kept moist – under a running faucet is one
safe place – your plant will be fine.
On the other hand, if you don't feel like dealing with algae at all, you can use darker containers or place clear
containers inside other pots or enclosures that block out the light. Finally, the double-pot, opaque method of
commercial hydroculture kits are also always an option that will solve the algae problem entirely. There is always
a solution to every problem if you give it some thought.
Dark Shades Or Crystal Clear?
I’ve received emails questioning whether or not using a light or dark glass container makes any difference and
whether one is more advantageous than the other. The answer depends on a number of things. Personal preference
ranks above and beyond everything else. If you like it a certain way, do it that way. Just bear in mind that the
clearer the glass, the more likely the chance of algae. But also remember that the darker the glass, the harder it
is to see the water level - thus taking away the efficiency, advantage (and primary reason) of transparency.
However, you can go one step further by using a darker shade of glass to curb the possibility of algae development
and inserting a water level indicator into the ensemble to take the guesswork out of watering. I’ll stress once
more that a little imagination and creative thinking is required.
Cleaning Management
It’s important to rinse the clay pellets now and then to remove dust that accumulates and non-absorbed nutrients
and minerals that build up over time. If you are using liquid fertilizer, I recommend that you leach the clay
pellets under lukewarm running water once a month during the periods when you are feeding your plants (leach
every 2 – 4 months when you are not feeding). For slow release nutrients, rinse out the clay pellets before you
exchange the pouch/fertilizer.
If you are using the single, glass pot method as I do, here are a few common questions that many of you have:
1) Do you have to dismantle the setup and uproot the plant in order to clean the glass and rinse the pellets?
Yes. Dump out the medium into a kitchen colander or strainer and rinse it under running tap water to freshen it up.
Make sure you keep the plant’s roots in water at all times during this period. Rinse the glass with water (no
need to use soap) and scrub it with a sponge if necessary. Before you reassemble the setup, rinse the entire
plant from the top right down to the roots to remove dust and insects. Don’t forget to rinse underneath the
leaves where most pests hide from view.
2) Doesn’t uprooting and replanting upset the plant?
Not that I’ve noticed. I uproot and disassemble about 75 different plants regularly. This chore is carried out
regardless of whether there are any signs of algae. I clean the containers, rinse the pebbles in a colander,
rinse the plants under the faucet, check the roots for possible ailments and reassemble. I have been doing
this for years now and not one plant has had a problem with it. In fact, I believe that they rather enjoy it.
And why wouldn’t they? Their leaves are always dust and pest-free. Just remember to always – ALWAYS – keep the
roots wet at all times if they are exposed. Letting the roots dry out completely while exposed to the air is
definitely a way to cause damage.
3) What if I don’t feel like carrying out this extra effort associated with single, glass containers?
If you want to completely avoid the above added effort, you’ll have to use the double-pot method associated
with the standard hydroculture setup. In that case, just separate the two containers, place the culture pot under
warm running water (sink or bathtub) and place it back into the outer pot when you are done cleaning.
For more about this standard setup, read:
The Advantages Of Hydroculture Kits
Imagine It, Create It
One of the things I stress to my readers in response to some of their emails is the importance of experimenting
with different setups until they find something that works well for them. I started the same way as everyone
else does – I had no clue what the heck I was doing. But I experimented with many different setups, trying to
move my houseplants into the hydroculture growing method as painlessly as possible. There was never any doubt
that I would convert my plants to this style – that went without saying – but rather a concern for what kind of
containers and medium I would finally settle on.
From plastic to glass, from transparent to opaque, and everything else in-between, I tested the practicality
and effectiveness of each system until I finally decided that glass is the perfect choice for me. But it may
not be for you. Nevertheless, regardless of which setup you finally decide on, my advice is to experiment along
the way. You’ll not only test different arrangements but you’ll also learn about the vast possibilities with
hydroculture for your plants. Put on your hydro thinking cap and start inventing your own unique techniques.
Here are some ideas to get you thinking:
- Don’t dismiss plastic, transparent containers so quickly because they can still come in quite handy if you
don’t like the look of hydroton pellets and prefer to keep them hidden. That plastic pot can be used as an insert
into an opaque one. This is a practical (and affordable) option if you don’t want to purchase commercial hydro
kits but prefer to build your own.
This alternative opens endless possibilities. Anything can now become an outer
pot (ceramic, terracotta, metal, glazed), giving you access to vast home décor ideas, since you have an inner pot
always and easily accessible to you. Punch in some holes at the bottom of the plastic container and - voila - you
can easily remove the interior pot and rinse the pebbles under running water without the need to disassemble the
entire setup. What about the water level indicator, you ask? Ah, there’s always a solution.
Visit the website www.hydro-culture.net, scroll down to
the title ‘Level Indicator’ and learn how to build your own.
- If you want to use plastic as an insert or to stand on its own, look around your home before you hit the shops.
Those forgotten food storage containers taking up cabinet space in your kitchen are potential inner or outer pots
for plants. And some of them can turn out to be uniquely attractive.
For more ideas, read: The Advantages Of Hydroculture Kits
- If you’re intent on using glass but don’t want to spend time disassembling every time you need to rinse the
pellets, insert an appropriately-sized plastic pot that you’ve punched holes into the bottom inside the outer pot.
It might be a little tricky trying to match a specific glass vase to a plastic container but it's not impossible
if you are determined to make it work.
- You can choose plastic instead of glass for the entire setup, which will give you instant access to inner
and outer pots. If you purchase two plastic containers similar in shape, one slightly smaller than the other,
you can punch holes in the smaller one and insert it into the other. Then you can remove the interior one and
rinse the pebbles under running water without having to disassemble the whole container. With this option, you'll
still be able to see the level of water.
Smart Alternative To Inner Pots
There is another method that a fellow hydroculture lover promotes on his website: Pot and Saucer. This is a
terrific alternative that I’ve encouraged some of my readers to adopt. You will be able to retain a single
pot method with this one, stay clear of CLEAR containers if you prefer and still enjoy all the benefits and
easiness of hydroculture.
Visit the website: www.hydro-culture.net and click
on ‘Containers’ on the menu.
Remember, there is no written rule when it comes to what type of container to house your hydroculture plants in.
The possibilities are endless once your imagination takes flight. Whether you decide to use the single or double
pot method, as long as you are able to properly monitor the water level, anything goes. Transparent containers
may give you the advantage of being able to see how much water is in the container but opaque pots may be more
aesthetically pleasing to you.
So enjoy. And with a little creativity, you may discover innovative ideas of your own, which I invite you to
share when the time comes! There is no need to spend a lot of money to get this hobby going. Just put on your
hydro thinking cap and get growing.
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