Aside from my kids starting a new school season, the cooler evening and nighttime temperatures force me – a diehard warm-weather lover – to finally concede that the fall season is here (to stay). I cannot stress enough how much I dislike the cold season in which I shiver from head to toe whenever I step outside no matter how well I bundle up. It doesn’t matter how many years I spend in these Northern woods, I just can’t get used to the cold.

And neither can your houseplants.

If your indoor plants are summered outdoors and you live in areas where the fall season can become quite cold, start listening to weather forecasts as soon as the month of September kicks in (or at least midway through). Once you hear that night temperatures are plummeting to levels of 10°C / 50°F, start the process of moving your potted plants back indoors, out of the cold. Don’t wait too long. Most of your houseplants are tropical types that cannot withstand any amount of cold. They will not appreciate being left outside while you’re warm and fuzzy indoors. For those of us who’ve insensitively left our houseplants to brave low temperatures overnight, we’ve woken up to a comatose plant and limp foliage. Our leafy broods can be quite dramatic to say the least.

Even though it is important to bring your plants back indoors, the process must be measured. Knowing each plant’s individual temperature requirements is also essential. Some plants require warmer weather and should be brought inside as soon as the cold rears its ugly head. But there are other plants that can be left outdoors longer with their hardier constitution and ability to tolerate lower temperatures. There are flowering plants that will thrive during the early fall. The substantial rise and fall of temperatures between day and night, together with the shorter days of the season, will initiate blooming. These plants will shower you with bursts of eye candy with their colourful and showy flowers if left to brave the outdoors for awhile.

For the plants that shiver in their ‘roots’ and bang on your porch door begging to be let in when the fall begins, don’t rush to let them inside on a permanent basis from day one – no matter how much they beg, curse or shriek. You’re not being cruel; you’re being prudent. The process should be gradual so they can adjust well to the extreme differences between the indoor and outdoor elements, primarily light.

For starters, bring your sensitive troops indoors at night but place them back outside during the day. Make sure that the temperature has warmed up before tossing them out on the porch (5:00 a.m is usually not a good time). After a week or two of doing the indoor/outdoor shuffle, your houseplants will have had enough time to acclimatize to indoor temperature and light levels. This is certainly a tedious and dedicated effort, especially with some of your larger plants, but well worth it.

If you rush to bring your plants indoors, without allowing for acclimatization, they will react negatively. Despite our own inability to accurately measure (or tell) the difference between the indoor and outdoor light levels, your plants are experts at it. Indoor light is drastically reduced in comparison to the outdoors; you’d be surprised at how low light levels inside our homes can be. Imagine what a shock it is to your plant having to move from its tremendously bright location to a dim interior that also has much poorer humidity levels. If you don’t take the time to gradually move your plant back indoors, it will lose more foliage than it should.

Yes, every year after their summer vacation, regardless of whether you acclimatize or not, potted plants drop lower leaves as soon as they’re moved back indoors. This is normal. But if you make the adjustment to the indoors gradual for your plants, you will minimize the leaf loss. So while your plants are bound to shed some foliage, it need not be more than necessary.

Once inside, your plants will stabilize as they get used to the new conditions. They will lay low for the winter and dream about next year’s outdoor summer holiday.

(Note: Before you start any part of the ‘back indoors’ process, inspect your plants carefully. Discard dead leaves and blooms, check very carefully for pest infestations (treat accordingly) and clean pots and saucers. You want your houseplants to move back in, not uninvited guests that can infect many other plants, even the ones that did not vacation outdoors)


The Hazy Indoors In The Fall

Regardless of whether your houseplants vacation outdoors or not (I personally don’t put indoor plants outside), autumn is one of the most critical times of the year for all houseplants. It’s a difficult and stressful time for leafy broods when the adverse recipe of the fall season arrives. Special care should be provided during this period.

There will be days – before thermostats are turned up – that houseplants will be exposed to cooler temperatures. Since you are managing just fine during this period, your plants will not be worse for wear until the heating is started. But that doesn’t mean they will be much happier with the former. Once the heating kicks in, the air becomes hot and dry – usually more than what a tropical plant can handle.

Most houseplants adapt to the lower levels of our homes - even though they prefer higher humidity – but will do best when humidity levels are close to 50 percent (many of them will be reasonably tolerant if levels are at least between 40 to 50 percent). Even cacti, succulents and plants native to dry desert environments that tolerate lower humidity levels prefer the levels of humidity not to drop below 20 percent. The Sahara Desert has an average humidity level of 25% whereas our homes can plummet down to less than 20% during the winter with the heating system on.

There is no need for your houseplants to suffer inappropriate humidity levels. There are many ways that you can increase the humidity in your home, in individual rooms or around your plants. Humidity is a critical part in caring for houseplants during the fall and winter season and one of the easiest to manage.

For more information please visit:
Improving Humidity

During the fall and winter season there is lower light intensity and duration. Most of your indoor plants will need more light exposure during this period. For seasoned houseplant growers, this is the time of year when the relocation of plants is carried out. Some plants are moved closer to windows and some change locations entirely. As our days shorten and the sun continues to sink lower, many plants do not receive the amount of light necessary to keep them happy and healthy in the spots they occupy in your home through the spring and summer.

Plants growing in northern areas of your home or far away from windows may be perfectly happy there until the fall and winter season arrive; during that period, they may become light deficient if not relocated. Other plants may need to be placed a few feet away from the window during the summer but need to be moved closer when autumn arrives.

(Note: If you place your plants near windows or on windowsills, make sure the foliage does not press against cold glass and that the area is not too chilly)

Don’t just assume which plants are suffering from inadequate light during the short and gloomy days; your plants will give you signs of discontent. There may be yellowing or dropping of leaves, stretching towards the light, spindly growth, the premature dropping of buds or the complete cessation of flower development. If plant deficiency becomes chronic, plants will stop growing completely and growth may become stunted.

Be especially mindful of plants such as Hibiscus, Desert Rose (Adenium Obesum), Yucca, Aloe, Cacti and many others that require sunny or very bright locations to thrive. Make sure to place these light lovers in sections of your home that will offer adequate light exposure during the short and overcast days of this season. Artificial lighting may be a helpful and even necessary supplement for sufficient brightness. It will be especially appreciated by certain flowering houseplants that need an extra 2 – 4 hours of light in order to keep them in bloom during the fall and winter.

Along with light and humidity changes, plants may not need to be watered as frequently. Many houseplants go into a semi-dormancy state or a slowing of growth during this period and will not require as much hydration. This is the time of year when it is easy to over-water and kill a plant; be extremely frugal with the watering can. Improper watering ranks right up there with improper light - a frequent cause for failure with houseplants, especially during the colder seasons of the year.

Most houseplants are killed from too much water than not enough. They die because they drown. They drown because their roots rot. They drown because they can no longer draw in oxygen from rotted roots. Their roots rot because every single pore is filled with water leaving them with no ability to breathe. The roots need to breathe or they will die. So check carefully before watering and do not place your plants on a rigid watering schedule. Water only when needed, be it every three days, once a week or twice a month. If you are not careful about watering, your plants will develop root rot, which will lead to their death.

(Note: If you are growing your houseplants in hydroculture, you do not need to worry about over or under watering at this time (or any time) of the year. It’s about as infallible as you can get. You will never have to worry about drowning your plants with kindness)

Plants need less fertilization – or none – during the colder months. You will either have to greatly reduce the feeding applications or eliminate them completely until the arrival of spring. During slow growth that is stimulated by reduced light, plants need less fertilizer. If you continue to feed plants that continue to grow albeit slowly, cut back the rate to ¼ of the usually recommended dosage. For plants that become dormant during the winter months, do not fertilize at all.

Excess fertilizer becomes toxic, injuring your plant’s roots. Too much of this good thing will cause a buildup of salts that will burn the tips of the leaves. Browning of leaf tips or leaf margins can signify your overindulgence. Signs of too much fertilizer are also noticeable on the soil surface, around drainage holes and the outside of clay pots. When in doubt, do not fertilize at all during the fall and winter season. Your plants will do just fine without it. You can start feeding again when new growth appears in late February or early March, signifying the start of the active growing season.


The fall and winter seasons can create a great deal of stress for your houseplants. Stressed plants are weaker plants. Weaker plants are more susceptible to disease and pest infestations. A little extra care during this period of the year – providing adequate humidity, giving them the amount of light they crave and being prudent with the watering can and the fertilizer – will keep your houseplants in good shape and help them to get through this period with ease.

With a little TLC that you shower them with, your houseplants will do just fine this season and every reason - all year round.

Comment On This Article:
Your Name:
Your Email:
(Your email address will not be added to a mailing list or disclosed to other parties.)