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The Hydroculture System Explained
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Even if this is the first time you’ve heard about hydroculture, it’s not a new concept. Hydroculture emerged from Europe four decades ago. Although knowledge of hydroponics has grown in North America in leaps and bounds over the last two decades, the same can’t be said about hydroculture – the technique for growing indoor plants without soil.

The hydroculture system consists of five basic parts:

Outer Pot
The outer pot (container) is a closed water reservoir that can be any size, shape or colour. It is available in many different forms: ceramic, plastic, stone, glass, terracotta, etc.
Culture Pot
The culture pot insert is the heart of the hydro system. This pot is a special design that fits perfectly inside the outer pot and provides an oasis for plants. It is available on the market in many different sizes and made of plastic with openings in the bottom for maximum air flow through the growing medium and root zone. With its concave bottom, only the outer portion of the pot makes contact with the outer pot and the nutrient solution. The special design of the culture pot assures that the plant’s root are not growing in water; they are growing above the water, surrounded by the clay pellets, which draw the moisture by capillary action from the supply in the outer pot. Roots are never wet, just evenly moist.
The Growing Medium
Clay pellets are the growing medium of choice. They take the place of soil, are porous, retain moisture and transfer moisture to the roots by capillary action. These pellets are light in weight, do not compact, are inert, ph neutral, contain no nutrients and are completely reusable; you can clean and sterilize them after use. The clay is formed into pellets and then fired in rotary kilns at 1200°C, which causes it to expand inside, like popcorn, and become porous. The pellets drain freely and don’t hold excess water, providing good oxygen levels around the root area. This growing medium called LECA (Light Expanded Clay Aggregate) also provides the necessary support for the plant along with its ability to absorb the correct amount of water and oxygen. Healthy and beautiful plants are guaranteed with this optimal ratio of water and oxygen.

     
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Water Level Indicator
The water level indicator fits into a slot in the culture-pot and is used as a water gauge. This indicator discreetly protrudes from the container and resembles a thermometer. There are three markers on the indicator: min (minimum), opt (optimum), max (maximum). The marker in the indicator rises as water is added and falls as the water is used up by the plant. When the indicator reaches its bottom level, it’s time to water. Add more water until the mark is back to the optimum. The lowering and rising of the water level serves a very beneficial purpose. Air circulates in when the water level lowers. When it’s time to add water, the rising level forces trapped air up through the clay pellets and brings oxygen to the plant’s roots. Only under special circumstances should you fill to the maximum level – long absences from home, a very dry house, or if a plant is a very thirsty one and the water runs out quickly. With this indicator letting you know when and how much to water, how can you go wrong? You’ll never again have to worry about over or under watering.
Nutrient
Fertilizing plants has never been easier than it is with the hydroculture method. In this system, the plants have a regular feeding schedule, which eliminates the guesswork involved in feeding soil grown plants. Feeding frequency depends on which plant food you decide is most convenient. The two basic choices are liquid fertilizer and slow release nutrient. Liquid fertilizer can be added at every watering while the slow release nutrient is placed in the bottom of the hydroculture water reservoir every six months.
It’s That Simple

The above text equips you with information about the standard hydroculture setup.

Although I find the standard hydroculture style very appealing, my preference is the single pot. I personally love glass containers – the abundant different styles and sizes to choose from – and their aesthetical appeal. I do have a few plants growing in standard hydroculture setups, but the rest are in glass containers, which don't include inner pots or water indicators. This method has proven to be very successful and economical. If you’d like to learn more, visit: My System Explained



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