I live in a big city where impatience, rudeness, frantic rushing and stress are the day to day norm for most. But not all. Certainly not for me. I’m one of those individuals that can wait patiently in lines, in waiting rooms or in traffic jams until my turn (or the opportunity to move forward) comes up. Even in the most frustratingly-long check-out lines, I remain remarkably calm while the nerves of many shoppers around me are on the verge of snapping. I don’t huff and puff and try to blow the customer in front of me down. I don’t sigh heavily. I don’t fidget. I don’t even look tense. I just wait, for as long as I have to. Quietly.

There is no great secret or inherent ability to my patience; it’s relatively simple: I stay calm by keeping myself occupied, which in turn keeps me from getting frustrated. Because the way I look at it, why get all bent out of shape about something you can’t do much about? I mean, if I’m stuck in a traffic jam, will bouncing up and down in my seat, swearing like a truck driver, beeping my horn frantically, foaming at the mouth or crying like a baby change anything? Not a thing; I’d still be stuck in my car - and completely out of my mind. So doesn’t it make more sense for me to keep busy by listening to the radio, chatting with passengers or daydreaming about tropical vacations, all of which help pass the time and keep me sane? I think so.

It’s not that I never become impatient or annoyed or anxious. I do. Or that I’m never pressed for time. I am. But when I know that there’s absolutely nothing I can do about a bad situation, I make the best of it. Furthermore, when I know in advance that it’ll probably end up being a bad situation, I prepare for it. For instance: when I have to renew my passport, driver’s license or Medicare card, I know that there is a good chance I’ll be held hostage for awhile at the government office (black hole) that I have to haul my butt over to. So instead of freaking out when they call out number 25 and I’m holding 132, I whip out the book I’ve brought along and spend the time reading. And since I’m an avid reader that practically inhales books, this suits me fine.

Most medical offices, dental clinics and hospital waiting rooms are courteous enough to offer an assortment of things to read. In these places I don’t need to bring along anything to keep me busy, unless I really want to. Oh sure, many times the reading material in these locations is slightly outdated, but usually still interesting. When I take public transport such as the bus, metro or train, I always bring a backpack along that is stuffed with magazines and books to flip through. (Of course, why three magazines and two novels that I haven’t even started yet is necessary on a 15 or 20-minute trip is beyond me; I barely have time to finish a couple of articles in a magazine.)

But whatever.

I guess what I’m trying to say is that, even though I hate waiting as much as the next person, I refuse to lose my cool. This is especially important in check-out lines in supermarkets and department stores, that all of us have to face at some point. Grocery shopping in particular – a shopping experience you can’t avoid - can be quite frustrating during the busy hours, especially if there are tons of people in front of you in the check-out lines – all of them waiting with overflowing carriages.

That’s the bad news.

The good news is that grocery stores usually have rack after rack of magazines located conveniently near the cash register. Obviously they’re there to be sold, but for people like me they’re a wonderful way to pass the time while waiting in line. I use those moments to flip through as many magazines (that I’d never buy) as possible. I particularly enjoy food and cooking magazines like Taste of Home, Bon Appetit and Cook’s illustrated that I scan for tips and tricks or interesting recipes. Of course, it goes without saying that I indulge in gardening magazines such as Canadian Gardening, Better Homes & Gardens, Fine Gardening and Horticulture - just to name a few. And even though cooking and gardening rank the highest, sometimes I treat myself to a free peak at home decorating magazines. Style at Home, Traditional Home, Canadian House & Home, Canadian Home & Country, Elle Décor, House Beautiful and Metropolitan Home are some that come to mind, although I’m not entirely sure which ones are available where.

In any case, home decorating magazines is what I’ve been occupying myself with lately when we do our grocery shopping. And what I’ve noticed is that plants are not frequently used as decorative items on top of furniture and appliances. This is not to say that no botanical touch is added, there is. But you’re more likely to see vases of flowers, containers of herbs and some forced bulbs on top of end tables, counters, fireplaces, bookshelves, windowsills and cabinets, instead of common, popular houseplants like a Spathiphyllum in bloom, a colourful Croton or an odd-shaped cactus. I could be mistaken since I don’t flip through these types of magazines regularly, but I really haven’t noticed the use of houseplants when I have looked.

This experience turned out to be a positive one because it inspired this Hydro Log: a compilation of eight houseplants that I believe make great windowsill and tabletop plants. Each one of the specimens I’ve added is beautiful and unique in its own way, a wonderful addition to any décor. For those of you looking to add some decorative greenery to your home, consider one of the plants below. In addition, all eight are fairly easy to grow. What more can you ask for?


1) CYCAS REVOLUTA - SAGO PALM

The Sago Palm is an exotic-looking plant that will add a dramatic touch to any interior. In addition to its unique look, this is a plant that tolerates neglect, making it a perfect choice for the novice or the negligent plant grower. Sold throughout the year in many different sizes, you can easily land yourself a small version of one of these gorgeous plants to be placed on a kitchen counter, coffee table or other surface.

Place your Sago in a location with very bright light throughout the entire year; it also adapts well to full sun, which is preferable. Don’t compromise this need. Without proper light they will not grow – and they’re already so slow-growing – or leaves will become malformed. New growth usually occurs in the late spring or early summer with the plant typically putting out one whorl of new leaves per year.

Normal room temperatures that are comfortable for you are the best bet for your Sago. Humidity levels are not critical but moderate levels are good for both you and your plant. Feeding is seldom needed; slow-release granules or diluted liquid fertilizers are recommended. Fertilizing too often will damage the roots.

Choose a very well-draining potting mix, water well during the growing season and allow the soil to dry between each application. Decrease watering considerably during the winter. Be extremely careful with your watering habits. Over-watering is a Sago’s death sentence. Switch this plant to hydroculture and put an end to all water worries.

For more info: Prehistoric Plants & Hydroculture


2) BEAUCARNEA RECURVATA – PONYTAIL PALM

This slow-growing, long-lived, attractive and intriguing specimen is an excellent choice for indoor gardeners in search of low maintenance houseplants with an interesting look. There’s no need for an experienced green thumb with the Ponytail Palm that thrives on neglect and requires very minimal care. Like the Sago Palm, this interesting specimen is available in different sizes, including small versions for small spaces.

Truly an oddity with its large swollen base and long, grass-like leaves that cascade from the top like a ‘ponytail’, this native to Mexican deserts requires as much light as possible to grow happily – from very bright, filtered light to full sun. The Ponytail Palm can easily get through extended periods of drought with its thick trunk that stores water. With that in mind, pot it up in a loose, fast-draining medium, be extra vigilant with the watering can and allow it to dry well between each watering session. Humidity is not critical and average home temperatures are fine. To completely eliminate all water woes, switch this excellent candidate to hydroculture.

If the two most important requirements – light and water - are met accordingly, your Ponytail Palm will add a unique touch to your home for many years.

Learn more: Growing A Ponytail


3) PACHYPODIUM LAMEREI - MADAGASCAR PALM

An unusual specimen with a thick, spiny trunk covered with thorns and leaves that form only at the top like a palm tree, this succulent is great for beginners with its undemanding nature. Snatch one up when it becomes available at a local greenhouse because, although quite popular, these beautiful plants are not always easy to find.

Grow in a porous, well-draining soil to avoid over-watering. During the summer, keep the plant slightly damp, never soggy; during the winter keep it almost dry. Provide as much light as possible, bright to full sun all year round. Feed every 3 – 4 weeks during the spring and summer seasons; do not feed during the winter months. Humidity is not an issue; the plant can tolerate dry air very well.

This palm-like oddity is an outstanding performer in hydroculture. If you decide to convert from soil to pellets, handle with great care when transplanting to avoid being stabbed by the long, needle-sharp thorns. Conversion is fairly quick; water roots may form anywhere within 2 – 4 weeks. There will be minimal leaf loss due to stress but it will be replaced by new growth in next to no time.


4) CEPHALOCEREUS SENILIS - OLD MAN CACTUS

Cephalocereus Senilis – known as Old Man Cactus - is one of the most popular and identifiable members of the cactus group. Aside from its charm, the fine hair that covers the entire fleshy, columnar body and hides the sharp spines serves an important purpose; it protects against the harsh desert sun, which is common to this plant’s native home.

Grow in a well-draining, highly-porous soil mix to prevent rot. During the active growing season, water thoroughly and then do not water again until the soil is completely dry. During the dormant period – late fall to early spring – keep almost completely dry; water enough to keep the plant from shriveling. Select the sunniest spot available, especially during the winter when the quality and quantity of light is reduced considerably by shorter, cloudier days. Ample sunshine keeps this unique cactus healthy and encourages hair growth.

Humidity is not critical; a drier environment is preferred. Provide warm temperatures (18°C - 29°C / 65°F - 85°F) during active growth and cooler ones (13°C - 16°C / 55°F - 60°F) during dormancy. Do not expose to temperatures below 10°C (50°F) for extended periods. Cephalocereus Senilis is one of the best performers in hydroculture. Transplant with great care to avoid being stabbed by the sharp spines. Conversion is rapid with no ill effects. Make sure the water level is always kept below the roots; let it dry completely before adding more water.

For more information: Old Man Cactus


5) CRYPTANTHUS - EARTH STAR

This charming terrestrial with its rosette of stiff, finely-toothed leaves is one of the easiest Bromeliads to grow and one of the prettiest with its star-like form. Growing no more than 15 centimeters (6 inches) wide and 15 centimeters (6 inches) high, this compact plant is the perfect choice where space is limited. It’s also an ideal plant for dish gardens.

The succulent leaves will turn bright pink or even red when grown in intensely lit locations so provide plenty of bright light and even full sun. Earth Stars have a very small root system and must be watered very carefully to avoid rot. Keep the soil evenly moist and never allow the plant to dry out completely. Above average humidity levels are the preference. Place the plant on top of a pebble tray filled with water or near a humidifier. The Earth Star is perfectly suited to a terrarium. Average indoor temperatures are fine.

All types of Cryptanthus thrive in the hydroculture system, which puts an end to watering woes.

For more info on Bromeliads: Jewels Of The Plant Kingdom – Bromeliads


6) NEOREGELIA CAROLINAE TRICOLOR – BLUSHING BROMELIAD

Neoregelia Carolinae Tricolor is one of the most ornamental and one of the hardiest tank-style Bromeliads. It is able to endure extended periods of neglect: insufficient light, watering blunders and low humidity. You can water exclusively through the funnel of leaves; keep the central rosette (cup) filled with fresh water. Flush the tank periodically (every 1 – 2 months) to remove salt buildup and prevent stagnation, and refill it with fresh water. If you choose instead to water through the medium, allow it to dry out considerably and then water thoroughly until it runs out of the bottom.

Provide as much light as possible. Some early morning or late afternoon sunshine is very beneficial; protect against midday sun. Keep humidity above average by placing the plant on a pebble tray or by adding a humidifier nearby. If your plant is actively growing, feed it about once a month with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer that is diluted to half strength or less. Do not fertilize during the winter months or if the plant is grown in low light. If you are watering exclusively through the tank, fill a spray bottle with a very weak fertilizer solution and mist the leaves lightly. Average household room temperatures between 15°C (60°F) to 24°C (75°F) are fine.

Learn more: Rescuing A Blushing Bromeliad


7) SANSEVIERIA TRIFASCIATA - SNAKE PLANT

With stiff, sword-shaped, marbled leaves that resemble snakeskin, the Sansevieria Trifasciata is so resilient and adaptable, it’s as close to indestructible as any plant can get. There are many Sansevierias to choose from – in tall and short form – but the Trifasciata is one of the most familiar and commonly-grown in homes and commercial settings.

Although its ability to survive in low light areas, scorching heat, dry air, extended periods between watering and months of neglect has earned it a reputation of robustness, it performs much better with proper care in a brighter location. This tolerant plant will thrive in a sunny and warm location all year round.

It is almost impossible to kill this plant; over-watering is the only thing that will ultimately defeat it. Use a fast-draining, highly-porous soil and water only when the medium dries out. Be extra vigilant with the watering can during the colder months when susceptibility to rot is high. Switch to hydroculture to eliminate all water woes; all snake plants are champion performers in this growing style, adopting the system effortlessly.

Learn more: Sansevieria Trifasciata – Easy Come, Easy Grow


8) EUPHORBIA MILII – CROWN OF THORNS

This adorable plant has thick, fleshy stems armed with numerous thorny ridges that support dark green, lance-shaped leaves and small, pretty flowers - in shades of red, pink, yellow or white - that bloom freely most of the year. The supposed ‘flowers’ are actually showy bracts (the actual bloom is in the center), but the ensemble is quite charming.

The Euphorbia Milii, attractive and easy to care for, can handle a substantial amount of neglect and keep on growing. Give it as much light as possible, water moderately from spring to summer and sparingly during the winter. Succulent stems allow it to be quite drought-tolerant, but if it’s severely under-watered, it will drop some (or all) of its leaves. On the other hand, constant over-watering will eventually kill it.

Switch to hydroculture, the ultimate solution to the otherwise eternal water juggling act. The Euphorbia Milii takes to the system like a fish to water, flourishing happily as it rewards you with abundant new leaves and generous blooms.

Learn more: Crown-Of-Thorns - Euphorbia Milii



Above is just a small list of interesting, decorative indoor plants, all available in small versions that can be placed on top of furniture, appliances and windowsills. Dozens of other specimens can easily be added to this compilation, but like every other Hydro Log, I have to end it somewhere.

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